A CASE

FOR

FRINGE


There are many elements that drew me to fringe when I started this project. The first was its use in fashion within the Native American culture. I myself am Lakota, Dakota and Shoshone-Paiute, so my love of fringe stems from seeing fringe worn by people in my family and at different events. Looking more closely at the historical side of fringe is what really drew my attention. Fringe was a way to use up scraps of material in an effort to use up every piece of the animals that they would hunt. This was especially true for leather clothing. Since the leather took a long time to prepare the edges would be cut into fringe to create a more decorative look. While the leftover scraps would be cut into fringe to add to other clothing.

Man’s Shirt, Northern Tsitsistas/Suhtai (Cheyenne), hide, porcupine quills, hair, wool cloth, glass beads, brass bell, mirror, paint, sinew, 117 x 160 cm, National Museum of the American Indian (NMAI)

One of the styles of fringe that I found most interesting were the scalp shirts. These War Shirts or Scalp Shirts had to be earned through the wearer's acts. These acts of bravery/deeds were then incorporated in the designs of the shirts. Scalp Shirts were also thought to possess spiritual power that was then transferred to the wearer of the shirt. Before he was allowed to wear the shirt the man had to earn the right to wear it by proving that he was an outstanding warrior. Only those that showed great wisdom and strength, repeated bravery in combat, selfless character, concern for others and the welfare of the tribe were honored with the right to wear a War Shirt.

The Oglala Lakota chief Red cloud was one of Lakota "shirt wearers". Photographed by John Hillers in 1880 (Above). His war shirt (Below) is now in Buffalo Bill Historical Center in Cody.

A war shirt that belonged to Oglala Sioux chief Red cloud, 1870’s. It is decorated with beaded strips and human hair scalp locks. Buffalo Bill Historical Center in Cody,Adolf Spohr Collection

A Lakota quilled war shirt with human hair scalp locks. Masco collection

A Crow war shirt with depicted war deeds. National Museum of the American Indian( NMAI).

POWWOW

A powwow is a Native American gathering that involves singing, dancing, and much more. They are a great way to reconnect with friends and family, eat good food, and my favorite part is shopping at all the different booths that various vendors set up. The dances though are what really grab your attention. With the many different kinds of dances there are just as many different kinds of outfits. Each with their own design to best show off the dancers skills. The outfits or dances that I am looking at are mens fancy, the shawl dances, buckskin dancing, and the grass dance.

Photo Credit: Derek Mathews – Gathering of Nations Pow Wow, Grass dancing 

Cody Singer, Dances Thursday, July 24, 2014, at the 20th annual Native American Celebration in the Park Powwow in Salt Lake City at Liberty Park (Rige)

Grass dancing outfits consist of a shirt and paints with beaded or decorated belt, side tabs, armbands, cuffs and a front and back apron. Ribbons and fringe are the part of the outfit that moves and it is said that this dance comes from when the you boys would stomp the grass down before a dance. They would then tie the grass onto their outfits. The material of the grass has changed over the years, from the fringe being made from yarn to ribbon, with the most common color being white.

Fancy dance is probably the most well known or popular dance. The dance originated as a Fancy War Dance by the Hethuska Society in Oklahoma. The outfits are quite spectacular, containing many beaded elements such as a belt, cuffs, headband, and armbands, as well as a medallion on the forehead and bustles. The Fancy Dancers bustles are the trademark of this outfit. They are large pieces worn on the back, with another tied around the waist and sometimes with smaller ones on the arms, decorated with feathers, beadwork and fringe.

Two native women in Pow Wow dance competition at Indian Village during Calgary Stampede. Calgary, Alberta, Canada. Taken 15 July 2005

The Buckskin dance is one of the oldest Native American dances with the movements being smooth and flowing with an emphasis on elegance and grace. These outfits are made with intricate beaded designs. The women will carry a fringed shawl over one arm or their sleeves will be fully fringed. This long fringe then sways in time with the beat of the drum emphasizing their slight movements.

Native American woman doing fancy shawl dance at Wind River Hotel & Casino in Riverton, Wyoming’s Wind River Country

Finally my favorite form of dance is Ladies Fancy Shawl. It is the newest form of Native American dance. The women wear fringed shawls over their shoulders that they use during this athletic dance to mimic a butterfly in flight. 

CONTEMPORARY

“Decolonizing is a utopian idea, whereas I look at Indigenizing as something that is practical and that can happen. To me, Indigenizing fashion is quite simply having representation of Indigenous designers on a national platform. And that is multifaceted, but fundamentally it is about representation.” - Amber Dawn Bear Robe

Fringe is a major embellishment being used today in Native American fashion. It is being used on earring, clothing, shoes and other accessories. Seeing this traditional embellishment being used in a modern way is such an exciting representation of Native American fashion and culture.

Susan Blight, Delaney Chair in Indigenous Visual Culture is photographed by OCAD U lecturer Kristy Boyce wearing faculty member, Jason Baerg's latest designs. 

Efface (2017) 61 (h) x 23 (w) x 30.5 (d) cm, mixed media. Private Collection (Toronto). Photo: Courtesy of Heffel

KADUSNÉ collection by URSALA HUDSON 

Matriarch Rising [ Ensemble ] Merino wool, silk, tin cones, leather. Ravenstail ceremonial regalia ensemble, 2021.

MY STUDIO

Within my own studio practice I have begun to think about how I can incorporate all these different fringe elements into my own practice. I have begun cutting up leftover canvas from other projects to create my own fringe pieces. This piece shown below is my own interpretation of a Shawl Dancers shawl. I am experimenting with different materials in terms of what can be fringe and look forward to seeing where this train of thought will take me.

Untitled (Black Fringe), 2023, dyed canvas, 85” x  27”

Untitled (Black Fringe),2023l, dyed canvas and glass beads, details

Gowder, Paul, and Paul G. “Pow Wow Dancing Archives.” PowWows.com, May 14, 2023. https://www.powwows.com/category/articles/powwow/dancing/. 

“Collections Search.” National Museum of the American Indian. Accessed May 24, 2023. https://americanindian.si.edu/explore/collections/search. 

Korman, Benjamin. Indigenizing Fashion with Amber-Dawn Bear Robe. Other. The Met, November 1, 2022. 

“Fashion – Santa Fe Indian Market.” Southwest Association For Indian Arts. Accessed May 24, 2023. https://swaia.org/fashion/. 

Hudson, Ursala. “Kadusné.” Kadusn. Accessed May 24, 2023. http://kadusne.com/.



Chelsea Bighorn was born and raised in Tempe, Arizona, and her tribal affiliations are the Fort Peck Assiniboine and Sioux tribes from Montana and the Shoshone-Paiute from Northern Nevada. Coming from a mixed race background, Bighorn's work is her way of navigating between her two different cultural backgrounds, Irish American and Native American. She received her Bachelor of Fine Art in Studio Arts from the Institute of American Indian Arts in 2021. Currently she is studying at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago to get her Masters in Fiber and Material Studies.


chelseabighorn.com