Painting on Fabric with the Heat Press

By Royce Cottingham

The Heat Press Sample Box

For this project I was interested in experimenting with the heat press, beginning to make my own samples. I’m fascinated with how different materials affect how the image transfers, either through color and/or clarity. There are a few different examples of different fabrics in the Textile Resource Center found in the heat press sample box, #16.01-16.09, that I was particularly drawn to. The process of transferring ink on paper to fabric is called a sublimation process. It uses the heat press to transfer the color with high temperatures and pressure. 

The box holds synthetic materials ranging from see through, sheer fabric where the pigment is slightly faded but vibrant. There is also opaque but very vibrantly dyed fabric with foil and suede heat transferred on top. As well as samples where the heat transfer looks almost like an xray or removal of color from fabric, created by laying another piece of fabric over the main piece of fabric you’re pressing the image on, transferring the outline of the object/fabric onto your main piece. These three different techniques fascinated me. They all look so different, while using the same machine. 

So the direction I’m taking is practice based with lots of experimentation through materials, fabric and techniques that may not be as commonly practiced, although it seems as if the heat press itself is not a common practice to begin with. 

Below are some images of the objects I’ve been looking at this semester that sparked my interest in experimenting with their technique on my own.


Images of the samples in the heat press box

Digitally printed with disperse dyes, image/ink transferred to fabric

Printed image on paper and pre-dyed, image/color transferred to fabric

Heat pressed dyes on fabric for four seconds

Heat transfer paper. Scanned and digitally drawn

Bee foil transferred on suede. Glue placed on fabric where gold foil is in order to make the foil stick to the fabric.

Background

As I’ve been experimenting with different materials and images, I’ve been doing some research on the history of the heat press. 

The heat press/transfer machine was created originally to create embellishments for clothing. It’s largely used for creating prints on t-shirts or sweatshirts and is pretty unexplored in the art world. It’s commonly used as a replacement for screen printing since it’s faster, easier and cheaper. The production process is faster as well, allowing more to be created in less time. It seems like in order to understand the heat press in depth, there needs to be some exploration in screen printing. 

Some embellishments that are found within this sample box that I’ve been researching consists of foil transfers, which requires a dried glue base that is put on fabric and then pressed for 15 seconds in the press, suede transfer which is were you create your desired pattern out of a suede material, one side is sticky and the other side is suede. You lay the sticky part on your fabric and then press it for around 30 seconds. Dye sublimation is the last technique which is where you paint your design on a piece of paper and then once dried, you press the paper, ink side down, to the fabric for 3 ½-5 minutes depending on your fabric. 

Dye sublimation came around in the late 50s that uses heat to transfer an image over to a piece of fabric. 

Screen printing is quite an old practice, dating all the way back to 960-1279 AD. It was largely used in the Song Dynasty, who introduced Europe to screen printing in the 18th century but wasn’t as widely used. The Song Dynasty used human hair to stretch across a wooden frame to act as the mesh screen. To create different images, like for example a leaf image, they would place the leaf on the hair “screen” and then apply ink. Later on they went from using hair as a screen to silk, giving the practice the name “silk screening”.

It was then largely used in advertisement in the 1940s but didn’t become recognized until the famous Andy Warhol who popularized screen printing in the 60s with his pop art prints. Screen printing involves a lot of different steps and in order to get different colors, that requires different layers and the use of several different screens are needed. These steps take a decent amount of time and skill. The heat press compliments exactly what the screen printing process complicates. The addition of color and quickening the process is how the heat press excels. 

Screen printing and heat press are two different ways that you can transfer an image to fabric. Screen printing, since you’re pulling ink to create your image, creates a more opaque image. While you can still get a strong image using the heat press, it won’t be as bright. This has to do with how thick the ink is when you screen print versus the ink paint that you use for the heat press. 

Heat transfer is possible due to a specific temperature that is reached in order to transfer your image onto your desired material. In order to reach a more opaque image, time, material and the opacity of the dyes that are applied to the heat press paper are key. One thing that you’ve probably noticed if you have used the heat press is that the pigments that you apply to the heat press paper are much darker than the colors that will be transferred to your fabric. One thing I found to answer that issue is the amount of time and the temperature that your fabric is withstanding. At the school it says to leave your paper pressed to your fabric and in the heat press for three to five minutes at around 350*F, whereas most of the samples that are marked, were only pressed for 45 second and at a much lower temperature. This difference in time has to do with the material used.

Images from the heat press sample box

Silver foil pressed on dyed pink canvas.

I’ve worked with the heat press that the School of the Art Institute has, called a maxi press to be specific, for a couple years at this point and have thoroughly enjoyed it and this investigation has helped my own practice as well. 

The Maxi Press

The first step in the dye sublimation process is to paint, using heat transfer ink, whatever design that you want onto a piece of paper.

1.

The second step, after the ink has dried, is to transfer the image to the fabric, which requires the heat press.


You must sandwich your inked paper. First you must lay a protective fabric layer down, then brown paper, followed by your fabric, then your inked paper, another layer of paper and then another protective fabric layer.

3. You then must close the bottom bed and then press the buttons on the side in order to press the inked paper to the fabric for the desired about of time, while the press is set to 350*F.

 4. The press is very sensitive to the materials you use, as well as how long you press your image to your fabric. I found that the thinner/lighter the fabric, like the silk, needed about 2 minutes of time pressed to get the image that I got. Versus the thicker cotton or canvas fabric needed about 3 minutes and 45 seconds to get the image I got.

My Samples

The more you print the image, the fainter the image will get. The amount of water you add to the dyes initially will alter the opacity.

I was also always taught that you should always paint on the heat press specific paper and then transfer it to fabric, but I painted directly on the fabric for one sample and then transferred it to another fabric and the paint still successfully transferred, just not nearly as strong.

In order to create a bright, strongly saturated image on your fabric, I found that synthetic fabrics are the best. On top of that you should press your image for around 3 ½ minutes to 4 minutes. For a lighter, more pastel affect, natural fibers or slightly translucent fabrics are ideal. Silk also works great and gives your image a great shine.

There’s a great sense of instant gratification when it comes to using the heat press as well as a great way to make designs through abstraction.

What I enjoy most about the heat press is how easy, quick and satisfying it is. After painting whatever design you desire, it only takes max 5 minutes to press your design onto your material. I also love the colors that are translated onto the fabric in comparison to what the ink looks like on paper. I’ve included a few pieces of my own that I’ve done over the past few years below.

The heat press has been a great inclusion to my practice, allowing me to create patterns by hand, quickly and smoothly.

Heat press and screen printing

Just heat Press

Heat press and screen printing, stuffed into pillows

Royce Cottingham

(MM Spring 2021 | BFA 2021)

My name is Royce Cottingham and I’m an undergraduate student at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago. I’m a fourth year and will be graduating with a BFA in textiles. The past two and half years at this school I have worked almost exclusively in the Fibers and Material Studies department. I was introduced to the heat press my second semester of my sophomore year and became obsessed with it. It’s a quick process to get your painted image onto fabric as well as aesthetically very pleasing–– producing wonderful variations of color.